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London part three

May 22-30, 2009

Finally satisfied my dim sum craving at Chinatown. Gladys and I met up with her friend Michelle and her German friend at Harbor City (I think that was what the restaurant was called) and had lunch there. Pretty decent and in my opinion, comparable to dim sum you get from Crystal Jade in Singapore. Three cheers for Cantonese chefs!

After lunch, we walked along Shaftesbury Ave towards Piccadilly and then I honestly cannot remember what we did for the rest of that day. I think we had dinner at Belgo’s, a German/Belgian pub near Covent Garden where you can pay according to the time you entered (5-6.30pm) and the food is really good there. Either that or we had fish and chips at Endell Street. My memory of dinners from six months ago fails me.

The next day however was pretty eventful. We made our way to Leicester Square and bought tickets for Les Miserables. It was a chilly morning and we took refuge at Pret and had breakfast there. I prefer the hot chocolate there to Paul’s because it is not too thick. And the jalapeno chicken wrap from Pret is fantastic. Eventually Dylan and Nat made it to Leicester Square and they were in the TKTS queue when we met up with them.

Next up was a walk to Trafalgar Square and into the National Gallery. I am now officially immune to art galleries, museums and such.

Nat, Dylan, Gladys and I at Trafalgar Square

Lunch was at St Martin's Cafe in the Crypt

And dinner was at Belgo's again.

Excellent excellent excellent musical.

Gladys’ last day

The next morning, Gladys and I were having breakfast at Paul’s while waiting for Yuanting and Kenny to arrive from San Francisco. They arrived at Gloucester just as we ordered our brekkie so I went to get them and walked with them to the hostel.

Gladys had the afternoon to walk around before getting to the airport in the evening. And it was her birthday on the 29th May so she chose to celebrate it over duck rice at Four Season’s in Chinatown. That done, the afternoon included braving the drizzle and winds at Trafalgar Square and the Westminster area.

We contemplated checking out 10 Downing Street and also perhaps getting to Oxford/Bond for a bit of shopping. Eventually though we headed back to the hostel so Gladys could get ready to leave for the airport. I accompanied her to the airport and said our goodbyes while she was at the tax rebate queue and went back to Gloucester for dinner with Yuanting and Kenny at Nando’s.

Borough Market

After hearing the rave reviews I had given to Borough Market, Yuanting and Kenny decided to pay it a visit and of course, I was going to join them. I was mildly disappointed though because there were less shops on a weekday and the atmosphere just wasn’t the same as Saturday but the main shops were there nonetheless.

Considerably less people on a weekday

Yuanting and Kenny had a wheat grass drink but no way was I going to have that

I opted for apple cider instead.

it didn't smell that bad really

freshly made sangria and pimms and fresh paella!

Now, I’ve been reading about the decline of the the wet market in Singapore. If the wet markets in Singapore were anything like Borough Market, I’m pretty sure they will do better than supermarket chains.

The three of us then made our way along the south bank of the river towards Tower Bridge and the Tower of London but by the time we got to the Tower of London, it was not far from the last entrance so we thought why rush it and decided to come back the next day and not go to Buckingham Palace as originally planned.

Yuanting and Kenny’s last day

May 29th, the day Yuanting and Kenny were flying back to Singapore and I would be alone again, for one night before leaving for Madrid the following day. We had originally decided to do Buckingham Palace but had to choose between that or Tower of London and it was the latter that won out.

There were little tents set up in the lawn and guides dressed in medieval costumes like there was a fair going on. It was pretty fun to hear them talk about the olden days but we were really there to join the tour given by the yeomen who protect the tower.

Tower of London

helmut looks ridiculous, i hope it works

totally in character now

our yeoman guide

The White Tower

So the funny thing is everyone on the little tour seemed more interested in Henry VIII and Anne Boleyn than anything else. I guess people always love a little scandal. Plus their story is currently making the rounds in movies and TV shows (The Other Boleyn Sister and The Tudors, etc).

I was more fascinated by the prospect of getting to see the crown jewels. Before that though, was an explanation of the ravens that live in the courtyard and how legend has it that if the ravens leave, the monarchy will tumble. I wonder what Queen E II really feels about that. Well, if I was a raven and I was getting fed chunks of red raw meat from the royal kitchen, of course I wouldn’t leave.

Tudor architecture and the ravens

Inside the White Tower, we got to see an exhibition about Henry VIII and his costumes, battle gear and all that, and even the royal latrine. And in the tower that houses the crown jewels, we were treated to footage of the jewels being used during ceremonies. Oh, of course we got to see the jewels too. And we were truly awestruck by the splendor and beauty of those jewels. No photos were allowed though. But the size of some of those diamonds… Wow.

OK, so for me, the Tower of London was one of the city’s top highlights. Incredible and definitely a must-do in London. That afternoon, we squeezed in a spot of shopping at Oxford Circus before Kenny and Yuanting packed up and left for the airport. I had been worrying about my suitcase all week because I wanted to leave it in London while I brought my backpack with me to Madrid. It finally worked out – I left it in the hostel and by God’s blessing, managed to find a kind couple (cousin’s friend’s in-laws) to pick it up and store it in their house for three months. More on that later.

So, I left London to spend the night at a hotel by London Gatwick airport, from where I would catch my early flight to Madrid…..

London part two

May 22-30, 2009

From Florence, we made our way to Pisa airport, where we caught a flight to London. Gladys was to fly back with Yuanting and Kenny after they returned from the US, but due to her company imposing a quarantine during the swine flu fiasco back in May, she had to bring her return flight forward by two days.

Back in London, this time we were staying at a hostel in Gloucester/Kensington, just a couple of blocks west of the Royal Albert Hall. Astor Hyde Park was pretty decent, relatively clean and  the rooms were sufficiently livable.

Borough Market

A visit to London is not complete without a visit to a local market. So Saturday we made our way south of the river to get to Borough Market. We had visited Portobello Market just before leaving for Paris but Borough Market was so much better. Part of it is situated under a railway track and the stalls sprawl out in a pretty orderly fashion.

I could not contain my excitement after seeing all the wonderful food that was being sold at the market. From raclette being prepared on the spot to cheese and leek quiches, and fresh scones with jam. Gladys and I immediately bemoaned our mistake of having breakfast before going to a market.

Not a fan of fresh tomatoes but these looked so amazing

gotta love the colors of the peppers

i wonder how many children in Africa can one egg feed?

legs of cured ham at a Spanish foods stall

I gotta add in retrospect that seeing the cured ham being sliced was a novelty for me. However, after my time in Spain, I realized that it really wasn’t a big deal because every bar has legs of ham hanging on the wall because they slice off the meat for ham sandwiches. It took some time for me to eventually get used to smelling and looking at the cured ham all around me in bars.

Gladys and I spent a fair bit of time at the stall pictured below. I would say that the picture explains everything. It doesn’t. Dried fruits and nuts covered not only in white, dark or milk chocolate, but yogurt too. And get this, the guys at the stall were extremely friendly too, shoving generous potions towards us to sample.

cheese mountain

i wonder how fresh these oysters really are

chocolate mountain...

...and brownie mountain

melting cheese before he scraped it over diced potatoes and voilà, you get raclette at a market

Sunday in London

Sunday started off with the 9.30am service at Holy Trinity Brompton before we made our way to Covent Garden. While there, we shopped a little bit, watched buskers… at a leisurely pace, like how Sundays are meant to be.

some people were awed by his body, some were just too scared of him

The buskers at Covent Garden were really great and we were thoroughly entertained by the string ensemble. I even bought their CD! The atmosphere at Covent Garden is lovely and it is one of my favorite places in London.

We headed to Oxford Street to window shop because we saw all these people with Primark bags. Almost every other person we saw on the street had come from Primark. We got there before it closed for the evening — not impressed. OK so the prices were really low but I didn’t see anything that I would wear so buying for the sake of buying would just mean a waste of money, and lesser luggage space.

On we walked till we got to Hyde Park. I love parks in temperate countries where you can stroll and actually enjoy the weather, as opposed to perspiring and wanting to find air-conditioning.

That evening, we met up with Dylan and Nat, friends from school. They waited for us at the Hyde Park Corner underground station and then we headed back in to Hyde Park while catching up and exchanging travel stories.

We decided to watch from Hyde Park corner towards Knightsbridge just to pass Harrods because it had already closed. We kept going and going, towards South Kensington where we had crepes for dinner. Dylan and Nat wanted to check out our hostel so we walked to Gloucester. I walked them to the underground station where they were going to catch the tube to Finchley, where their hostel was, and we agreed to meet up again.

to be continued…

Florence

May 18-22, 2009

Gladys and I left Rome on a train bound for Florence, while Yuanting and Kenny had arrived in San Francisco. We were really impressed with our hostel. Owned by brothers Vito and Carlo, Casa Dolce Casa was well kept, comfy and in a good location.

In parts of Florence, you still get a sense of the olden days with cobble stone streets and stone architecture. One wouldn’t use modern to describe the city, but rather antiquated yet charming. We took it easy that evening. We had roasted potatoes (cut like fries but fresh and lightly fried with olive oil) and linguine with calamari for dinner and strolled around the small town center.

The next day, without really having an idea of what we wanted to see, we again walked where our feet would take us. First, we went to check out the bus schedule to The Mall, a factory outlet about an hour away. That done, we walked in the central area, passing the cathedral, also known as the Duomo.

The queue to get in was long and the Italian summer was proving to be quite a test of our endurance. Along the way we were tempted by gelaterias. We gave up trying to get into the cathedral. We also found our way to the shopping district where Gladys wanted to go check out some bags. And we didn’t stay out in the heat too long. Eventually we called it a day and stayed indoors watching TV.

The Mall

So we took an hour long bus ride to the Tuscan countryside to get to The Mall, a factory outlet shopping center. Gladys’ colleagues had recommended the place to her and we were going to check out what we could find.

In the end, I actually bought more things than Gladys because she was fussy. And I know a good deal when I see one. Bought leather shoes and a wallet. Eventually, Gladys decided to buy her handbag from the boutique in Florence.

Brands represented at The Mall

Florence

Back in Florence, we had plans to visit the Uffizi. But another long queue for it really dampened my spirit. It was way too warm, the summer, and yet another museum/gallery wasn’t what I wanted to view. Watching TV online was way too tempting. Instead, we walked with less of an aim, looking at more sights around town. The list of sights we had drafted on the first day was quickly ignored.

Florence's central piazza, while I was having gelato

Replica of David by Michelangelo

Vespa galore

River Arno

Ponte Vecchio

The day before, we had dinner at a German pub and I managed to satisfy my cravings for chicken wings. Always trust a pub for great fare to accompany their beer! For our final meal in Florence, we settled for Italian, which was amazing as well.

Bread, asparagus with butter and cheese, pasta with porcini mushrooms and red wine from Chianti.

So long, Florence!

Rome part two

May 13-18, 2009

Yuanting and Kenny were flying off that afternoon to California, while Gladys and I were staying two more nights before heading to Florence the next day. We switched hostels for the remaining nights and it was a pretty good one this time. Met some Singaporeans who were just checking out.

Soon after, we were at Roma Termini where I spotted Alicia first, then Alvina. What a small world! And such a coincidence bumping into them at the same place at the same time. They were traveling in a group of four girls, all of them schoolmates of mine from communications. And they were going to meet up with Dylan and gang in Germany.

Bumped into SCI schoolmates at Roma Termini!

Fontana di Trevi

We took the metro towards the Trevi Fountain. It was a pretty warm day and while walking there, we stopped for some souvenir shopping along the way. First shop we stopped at was a limoncello store (limoncello is an Italian lemon liqueur) and also tried the coffee liqueur there. There were tacky souvenirs too, of the David statue, Roman sculptures, etc.

Limoncello from all over Italy

Fontana di Trevi

Eventually we got to the Trevi Fountain. It was way too crowded. Everyone was jostling each other. People were trying to get to the edge of the fountain so they could toss a coin or splash themselves. The story goes that if you throw a coin into the fountain, you’ll be back in Rome one day. The things people believe. Anyway it is estimated that the fountain collects 3,000 euros (in coins) per day.

It was really warm out there though so we sought shelter for a bit inside a nearby cathedral. We decided to walk towards Piazza Navona and catch some of the street sights along the way, passing the Pantheon though we didn’t go in.

The Pantheon

Piazza Navona

So we had read somewhere that this particular plaza (square, or piazza in Italian) was a must-see because it was atmospheric and charming. It was quite big and filled with Italian cafes along the inside perimeter. In the center of the square there is an obelisk and a fountain, flanked by artists and caricature artists.

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

Viagra ice-cream, anyone?

That evening, we met Gladys’ friend and his family for dinner. Before that though, he kindly brought us up one of Rome’s hills for an aerial view of the city. Dinner was pizza at an Italian restaurant in the suburbs, followed by ice-cream, which was a nice end to the day.

Pretty cloudy when we went up in the evening

From up there you can kind of make out the newer parts from the older parts of Rome

Piazza Navona, again

The next day, Gladys and I went back to Piazza Navona for a lazy day. We spent it sitting at a street-side cafe, taking in the sounds while reading. I speak for myself when I said the past week and a half in London, Paris and Rome had been tiring because we were rushing from sight to sight. Each day was packed with things to do so we took that day and a few others in Florence to relax and recharge.

Gladys at Piazza Navona

I like this structure but I forgot its name. Fiori something I think.

Colosseo by night

We strolled to the Colosseo district where we had been a few days earlier for me to take some evening shots. Dusk didn’t arrive till after dinner, which we, or rather I, had at a pizzeria. Gladys decided to return to the hostel, while I stayed out for the photos.

Up next: Florence

Rome part one

May 13-18, 2009

So Rome was a challenge for us because neither one of us four had been to Rome, or Italy for that matter. But being in a new place is always exciting once you get past the strange unfamiliarity and psyche yourself up for a new experience, and language.

We had a booking for this place called RetRome. We soon found out that it wasn’t really a hostel as much as a room in an apartment. And there wasn’t a reception and there wasn’t anyone around, so we had to wait outside till the guy arrived. But he was real funny and helpful, giving us lots of tips about Rome. The hostel was pretty decent, the decor was kind of retro, though the bathroom was kind of a problem. Imagine eight people sharing just one bathroom, and apparently the shower drainage got clogged up!

Vatican City

Our first day saw us heading to the Vatican City. The crowds were out in full force and we were queuing up for a bit. In fact, the queue was mostly for a security check, after which the entry was pretty fast. I walked around the square snapping some pictures before we headed into the St Peter’s Cathedral. The basilica was huge and we didn’t really know which entrance led to what. I remember at this point, I called my dad to talk about being in the Holy See. Mostly because I knew I was here as a tourist, and not a devotee. I had to be able to differentiate between what I was seeing and admiring as opposed to what I was believing in, I guess. As a Protestant, I wanted to be very clear of what I took in visually and mentally. And I didn’t want to be taking photos of what I don’t believe in, i.e. images of saints, Mary or Joseph and even Jesus, the crucifix with Jesus still on it and the popes. So I had to remind myself that I was here just to take in the secular architecture and images that were in line with Protestant teachings.

Cute uniform

Swiss guards

St Peter's Square

We headed to the Vatican museums thereafter. But I think Gladys and I both agreed that the Vatican City turned out to be less spectacular than we had first imagined. I guess it’s over hyped in the sense that everyone talks about it as a major attraction when you visit Rome but at the end of the day, what were we there for? Yes, I can say I have visited it but it wasn’t memorable and certainly didn’t leave much of an impression on me. What stood out though was the nice octagonal courtyard and Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam in the Sistine Chapel.

View of Ancient Rome

Octagonal Court

Sistine Chapel murals

Piazza del Popolo and Spanish Steps

After we left the Vatican City, we headed towards the Spanish Steps. Along the way, we passed a few monuments. And also saw streets lined with Vespas (what is Italy without them, right?) The narrow cobbled stone streets and colorful shop houses lent an air of Italian charm to our walk.

Piazza del Popolo

Piazza del Popolo

The ladies did a bit of window shopping, mulling over Italian-brand handbags. The fascination, I’ll never fathom. We hung around the area for a while, people-watching at the Spanish Steps. Also stopped for a drink at Macs and it turned out Kenny was the one who bought an Italian leather wallet. A seriously good buy though. Lesson learned: Always buy local products, never buy imports.

I guess this adds to the Spanish flavor of the steps

The Spanish Steps

Ancient Rome

We took the metro to the Colosseo stop and got out with the the magnificent Colosseum in front of us. We kept that for later in the afternoon though because we wanted to escape the crowds and do Ancient Rome first. We stopped for a bit at the entrance to the Roman Forum to snap some pics before going in. I was the only one who rented the audio guide so as I listened, I repeated bits that I thought the other three would like to know.

Gladys and I before entering the Roman Forum

It looks a little nondescript maybe but imagining the scene from centuries gone by makes it more creative.

Gladys, Kenny and I

From a vantage point

The ruins were really a sight to behold. Just thinking about the civilization that used to live here lets your imagination run wild with all these ancient bricks, concrete columns and disheveled bits of ruins lying around. Gladiators, men in armor, chariots, Julius Caesar… There was a short drizzle so we stopped to have lunch that we had packed from the supermarket near our hostel. Saw a creepy leaking cave and had a few laughs before we continued up the hill towards the gardens and residences. We got a little tired of the ruins after a while so we decided to head for the Colosseum.

So once we got in, it was not as big as it looks from outside. There’s not much to explore because once you get into the arena, you pretty much see everything. And it looks nicer from the outside too. All in all, ancient Rome was fascinating to look at, only if you really enjoy history and can let your imagination wander. I don’t really enjoy history but I sure did envision the scenes in front of me, maybe a little too influenced by movies.

Not so nice from the inside and looks small too

Group pic inside the Colosseum

I guess the external view is more iconic because of the arches and the partial outer wall.

Paris

May 9-13, 2009

Yuanting and I at Boulevard Saint Michel

Kenny and I at Eiffel Tower

Our last day in Paris was spent at the lavish grounds of the Chateau de Versailles. Getting there took about forty minutes by train, and there was a long queue waiting to get in. Tickets were pretty pricey at 25 euros for the entire palace, including Marie Antoinette’s residence but it was worth it. French gardens are so so beautiful, especially because I am a big fan of symmetry.

Traveling makes one think about heritage and culture. Visiting museums are all about reliving the past and understanding the background of a time gone by. I guess my visit to the Chateau left me wanting to know more about French aristocrats and also mentally envisioning how life was like back then. That said, to live in a palace like this one that was so richly decorated was pretty overwhelming for the senses.

Now, if only I could have a chandelier in my bedroom too...

Sometimes all you need is a bed, a chandelier and a carpet. Really like the soft lighting and period atmosphere.

More chandeliers! And so symmetrical.

Such prim and proper hedges. Love the lines that it creates.

Oh yeah, it was pretty chilly out there despite the sun.

What a nice backyard to have

Marie Antoinette insisted on her own quarters within the palace

View of the Chateau from near the lake

Portraits on board the boat we rented

And me, courtesy of Kenny

Isn't it great to stay till most tourists leave, so you don't get people in your face?

That evening, we had a traditional French dinner of cheese fondue. It didn’t go down too well for us and it was a meal we definitely did not enjoy. Raclette was much better, in my opinion! The cheese fondue we had consisted of three different types of cheese. They serve it with meat, potatoes and bread, which you dip into the pot of melted cheese. It’s too rich and you need to be a cheese fan to be able to take it. Glad we had the experience but never again. Went off to the Eiffel Tower after dinner for night photos.

The next morning, just before our afternoon flight to Rome, we spent it exploring the area around our hotel – Montmartre. It used to be the bohemian hangout of Paris (the setting of Moulin Rouge) for struggling artists and children of the cultural revolution. Around the Basilica of Sacre Coeur, the area is still home to artists, albeit targeted at the tourists who arrive in droves. I really liked the atmosphere and laidback charm of the area. Once again, I let my imagination run wild thinking of how the place used to be fifty years ago.. Wild, noisy, crazy. Home to the Parisian underground.

Basilica de Sacre Coeur

We came across many buskers, mostly musicians and those statues in costumes, but came across a group of goofy Brazilian guys performing the capoeira. It’s a form of dance/martial art, pretty interesting to watch and quite amazing how physically demanding it is.

Audience participation

So he stayed up in the air for some time....

Goofy Brazilian

After the entertaining performance, we wandered off into Montmartre proper, where you still see remnants of the artistic past of the area. There are many typically Parisian cafes, where people sit and watch other people – an activity more important than the drinking of coffee. Lots of artists and caricature artists, souvenir shops and such. Very touristy, and maybe a little damaged, in terms of how the area could have eroded its authenticity in order to fit the expectations of tourists. Still charming to some extent, atmospheric, but quite unreal.

The blue goes very well with the orange, hmmm some ideas for the bedroom maybe.

Taken from hip level, nice angle and great to snap unsuspecting people

Off to the Paris Orly airport for our flight to Roma…

Paris May 11

May 11

The plan for the day was to visit Notre Dame and also the Latin Quarter. What was great about it was that even though I had been before, and was going along for Ting and Kenny’s first time, there were still new things to discover.

The day started really chilly and there was a slight drizzle going. We stepped into the cathedral and spent some time in there. I didn’t enter the cathedral in 2007 because it was really crowded then so this time, I was quite taken with the serenity and atmosphere.

A model of the cathedral on display at the back

Wasn't easy finding a cross without the risen Savior

After Notre Dame, we shopped for a bit along Boulevard Saint-Michel, and headed in the general direction of the Latin Quarter. We managed to find Rue de la Harpe, where there are hordes of restaurants with affordable 3-course set menus. It was like reliving the past because I also saw the crepe vendor from two years ago!

The gloomy day ended with us ascending the Eiffel Tower. Again, I hadn’t gone up before so this was another first for me. Kenny opted to climb up while I decided to accompany Yuanting up via the lift, and then walk down later.

I'm a big fan of neat and symmetrical cities, so Paris definitely ranks up there!

This was probably taken when the wind took a break.

This was the real situation - gale-force winds!

View on the way down - not for the faint-hearted

Pity that the weather was so bad during our visit to the Eiffel. We headed back to the hotel so I could grab my tripod for night shots of Notre Dame. Dinner was at rue de la Harpe where we had escargots, roast chicken, paella and rose wine. 3-course meals for 14euros I think.

Yuanting dug out the escargots for us, haha

End result after twiddling with shutter/aperture and timer